Sunday 24 January 2010

Jan 2010

This month has dragged, more so than any other jan i remember. Maybe it's just this time of year. Or maybe it's the fact i haven't been drinking this month and getting back into to surfing again. I'm sure two hangovers a week has the effect of speeding every thing up ?

Over the last few years i really burnt out surfing. Travelling and surfing it to death. I lost the "stoke" for it. Then a good clean day came up a few weeks ago,i decided to go out and catch a few waves. Really when all is said and done riding a wave is why i wanted to surf in the first place. Not the surfer dude bull crap and quicksilver clothing. I learnt to surf in east preston ! Anyways there it is first blog of 2010 and i'm surfing again.

Right who wants a pint ?



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